Moose's Tooth
Ham and Eggs Route
Alaska's Most Iconic Mixed Climb
The Moose's Tooth stands as one of Alaska's most recognizable and sought-after alpine objectives. The Ham and Eggs route offers a spectacular mixed climbing experience, combining technical ice, mixed terrain, and stunning alpine rock on one of the range's most aesthetic peaks.
This route is perfect for climbers looking to step up their game in the Alaska Range. With sustained climbing at moderate grades, incredible position, and world-class scenery, Ham and Eggs delivers an unforgettable alpine experience.
Ready to Join Us?
Secure your spot for an unforgettable climb of the Moose's Tooth
2:1 Ratio
$6,900
per person
1:1 Private
$9,900
per person
Please reach out if cost is a barrier.
Duration
7 days (to allow for some weather days)
Ratio
Max 2:1 ratio
Meeting Point
TAT Pavilion, Talkeetna, Alaska
Grade
AI4 5.9/M4 Grade V
Prerequisites
Prior experience on multipitch ice or mixed climbing
Best Season
April - June
Required Skills
- • Comfortable climbing AI3-4 / M3-4
- • Experience with glacier travel and crevasse rescue
- • Ability to handle cold weather camping and self-care
- • Strong fitness for sustained climbing days
The Ham and Eggs route on the Moose's Tooth is a classic Alaska Range mixed climb that has become a rite of passage for aspiring alpinists. First climbed in 1975, this route combines everything that makes Alaska climbing special: sustained technical climbing, incredible exposure, and jaw-dropping scenery.
The route follows a stunning line up the southeast face of the peak, featuring:
Technical Mixed Climbing
Sustained pitches of ice and mixed terrain up to AI4/M4
Spectacular Position
Climbing on one of the most photogenic peaks in the Alaska Range
Summit Ridge Traverse
An unforgettable knife-edge ridge to the summit
Moderate but Committing
Technical difficulty is moderate, but the route is long and committing
The climb typically takes 12-16 hours round trip from base camp, making it a long day but allowing for a single-push ascent in good conditions.
Day 1: Arrival & Preparation
Meet in Talkeetna, conduct gear check, review objectives and conditions, prepare for fly-in.
Day 2: Fly to Glacier & Establish Camp
Scenic flight into the Ruth Gorge, establish base camp, acclimatization walk.
Day 3: Skills Review & Approach Recon
Crevasse rescue review, mixed climbing practice, scout approach to the route.
Days 4-6: Climbing Days & Weather Windows
Flexible days for summit attempt(s) based on weather. May include additional preperation or rest days.
Day 7: Fly Out
Break camp and return flight to Talkeetna.
Expert Guide & Instruction
Certified guide with extensive experience
Round-Trip Glacier Flight
Scenic flight to and from Ruth Gorge
All Meals on Glacier
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner for duration of trip
Group Climbing Gear
Ropes, protection, ice screws, snow anchors
Group Camping Equipment
Tents, cooking gear, fuel, shovels, wands
Satellite Communication
For weather updates and emergency contact
Pricing
2:1 Ratio
$6,900
per person
1:1 Private Guiding
$9,900
per person
Financial assistance may be available.
Please reach out if cost is a barrier.
Season & Availability
April - June (flexible scheduling)
What level of experience do I need?
You should be comfortable following multipitch ice and mixed routes at AI3-4 / M3-4. Previous glacier travel experience is helpful - we'll cover crevasse rescue skills during the trip if neccesary. Good fitness is essential as summit day is long and sustained.
What gear should I bring?
You'll need personal climbing gear (boots, crampons, ice tools, harness), appropriate clothing for Alaska conditions, and personal items. We provide all group gear, ropes, and protection. A detailed gear list will be provided upon booking. Gear rental may be available - contact us to discuss.
What are the weather conditions like?
April through June offers the best conditions for the route. Temperatures typically range from -10°F to 40°F. The Alaska Range is known for rapid weather changes, so we build flexibility into the itinerary to take advantage of good weather windows.
What if we don't summit due to weather?
Weather is always a factor in Alaska. Our itinerary includes buffer days and we'll work with you to maximize climbing opportunities. If conditions prevent a summit attempt, we may pursue alternative objectives in the area. No refunds are provided for weather-related changes.
What is your cancellation policy?
Cancellations more than 60 days before the trip receive a full refund minus a $500 administrative fee. 30-60 days: 50% refund. Less than 30 days: no refund unless we can fill your spot. We strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance.
Can I extend the trip or add other climbs?
Absolutely! Many climbers use extra days for additional objectives in the Ruth Gorge area. Contact us to discuss custom itineraries and pricing for extended trips.
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